Transylvania’s Eastern Carpathians offer solitude and wildlife beyond the castles

While Transylvania is globally recognised for its castles, the Eastern Carpathians in Harghita County present a different narrative of natural beauty and solitude. A recent 12-day family road trip, facilitated by Visit Harghita, focused on the region’s dramatic landscapes rather than its gothic history. The itinerary included stays at self-catering lodges and cabins, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the wild, forested peaks of the Gurghiu mountains.

The region remains largely unknown to international travellers, with 85 per cent of visitors coming from within Romania. This lack of crowds contributes to an authentic experience, particularly when compared to other European alpine destinations such as the Dolomites or the French and Swiss Alps, where costs are significantly higher. The area’s affordability and uncrowded nature make it an appealing alternative for those seeking a quieter adventure.

Culturally, the area retains a strong Hungarian influence, a legacy of its time within the Austro-Hungarian empire before being awarded to Romania after the First World War. Approximately 85 per cent of the local population identifies as Székelys, a distinct Hungarian-speaking group. This heritage is visible in local cuisine, including goulash and chimney cakes, as well as in the ornate wooden gates known as székelykapu that adorn local homes.

Wildlife is a central feature of the experience, as Harghita County boasts one of the highest bear population densities in Europe. Visitors can observe bears at dedicated sites such as the Medveles Székelyföld observatory and the Băile Homorod resort, where organised viewing sessions are available. The trip also included spontaneous sightings, such as a mother bear and cub ambling through the forest near the roadside.

Key natural sites on the itinerary included Saint Anne Lake, the only volcanic lake in Romania, and the dramatic rock walls of Bicaz Gorge. Hiking in the Gurghiu mountains provided opportunities to see the region’s flora and fauna, including wolves and lynx, while the summit of Harghita Mădăraș offered panoramic views, albeit sometimes obscured by weather.

Accommodation options range from quiet cabins to guesthouses with hot tubs, with costs significantly lower than those in Western Europe. For instance, bear-watching sessions are priced at £35 per person at Medveles Székelyföld, and kayaking on Zetea Lake starts from £6.50 per hour. These affordable activities allow for an extended stay, enabling a deeper connection with the region’s natural environment.