The Met’s John Galliano reversal exposes fashion’s limits of forgiveness

The Metropolitan Museum of Art has reversed its decision to dedicate its 2027 costume exhibition to John Galliano, following backlash over the designer’s past antisemitic and racist remarks. The cancellation is a rare public setback for Anna Wintour, who has supported Galliano’s return to fashion.

Galliano lost his role at Dior after hate-speech incidents in 2010, entered rehabilitation and was convicted of a hate crime in France. He later resumed a prominent career, leading Maison Margiela from 2014 to 2024, while his work — including the Dior saddle bag and archival couture — remained influential and commercially sought after.

Wintour supported Galliano’s rehabilitation, including meetings with Jewish leaders and the 2023 documentary High & Low – John Galliano. Commentators have described her efforts as a long-running rehabilitation campaign, although those claims belong to their interpretation of her influence rather than an established institutional account.

The Met’s decision drew criticism from patrons, New York politicians and Jewish leaders, who argued that a publicly funded cultural institution should show that hatred and bigotry have consequences. A 2019 allegation that Galliano made an antisemitic remark is disputed, and Galliano denies it.

The planned exhibition had promised a major commercial moment for Galliano’s archive. Vintage pieces remain in demand and can sell for thousands of dollars, while Zara reportedly still plans to release a Galliano collaboration later this month. The effect of the Met reversal on future sales remains uncertain.

The Met Gala is expected to continue, but no theme has been announced. It is also unclear whether the theme planned for 2028 will be brought forward. The event raised $42m for the Costume Institute this year, underlining the financial and cultural power of fashion’s most visible night.