The bandana’s modern revival: From Indian origins to Copenhagen Fashion Week
Once a symbol of political campaigns and workers’ rights, the kerchief has been reimagined as a versatile summer accessory, driven by celebrity sightings and a surge in secondhand market demand.
The bandana has re-emerged as a defining accessory of the current summer season, moving beyond its historical associations with cowboys and political campaigns to become a staple of contemporary street style. The trend gained significant visibility at Copenhagen Fashion Week, where the kerchief was worn by high-profile figures including Dua Lipa, Zendaya, and Priyanka Chopra Jonas. Its presence on social media and in retail windows signals a shift in how the item is perceived, transitioning from a utilitarian object to a fashionable adornment described by analysts as “mad-glamorous”.
Market data reflects this renewed interest, with secondhand platform Depop reporting a 152 per cent increase in searches for bandanas over the past three months. Shoppers are seeking out variations including gingham, skull and crossbones, and crocheted designs. Major retailers have responded to this demand, with Asos offering broderie Anglaise styles, Next stocking embroidered versions, and Toast providing blockprinted options crafted by artisans in India. The accessory’s versatility is further evidenced by singer Gracie Abrams, who wore one to Glastonbury last summer and subsequently released bandanas as part of her merchandise line.
The appeal of the bandana lies in its dual function as both a practical styling tool and a nod to vintage aesthetics. Daisy Murray, fashion commerce editor at Grazia, notes that the item offers a “60s/70s and 90s feel” while serving a functional purpose for managing hair in windy conditions. Similarly, Bella Webb, sustainability editor at Vogue Business, highlights the item’s multi-functional utility, allowing wearers to refresh outfits without purchasing new garments. This practicality resonates with consumers looking for sustainable fashion choices that blend seamlessly into daily life.
The item’s lineage is deeply rooted in global history, originating in India where the Sanskrit word *bandh* means “to tie”. Textile makers employed the millennium-old *bandhani* tie-dye technique to create colourful silk and cotton kerchiefs, which were later imported to England by the Dutch and English East India Companies. The classic paisley pattern, named after a Scottish town but originating in Kashmir, became synonymous with the accessory. Over time, the bandana was adopted by various groups, from snuff-takers seeking to conceal tobacco stains to political campaigners, including Martha Washington, Theodore Roosevelt, and Dwight Eisenhower.
Beyond its fashion and historical significance, the bandana carries complex cultural and social meanings. Bridget Dalton, a cultural analyst at Truth Consulting, points out that the accessory holds specific importance for Black communities, where it is used to protect natural hair, as well as for religious groups such as hijabi women and Haredi married women. Its presence in popular culture, from Rosie the Riveter to hip-hop stars like Tupac Shakur and Missy Elliott, underscores its ability to signal identity and affiliation. As the trend continues to evolve, the bandana remains a loaded symbol of both personal style and collective history.