The naked manicure: Recession, ecology, or erasure?

Copenhagen Fashion Week, which concluded on Friday, has cemented the 'naked' manicure as a defining aesthetic of the season. The trend, characterised by short, unvarnished, or sheer nails, marks a decisive departure from the long, bright, and glossy styles that have recently dominated beauty standards. From catwalk models to show-goers, the focus has shifted to a look described by manicurist Saffron Goddard as 'healthy-looking' and 'well-groomed', prioritising function over conspicuous decoration.

Isabella Rose Davey, chief operating officer of Copenhagen Fashion Week, attributes the minimalist style to Danish cultural norms. Davey, who moved to the city from London seven years ago, compares the trend to the local preference for 'no-makeup makeup'. She notes that the practicality of short nails aligns with an active lifestyle involving cycling, swimming, and sauna use, creating a look that is 'very Danish' and inherently functional.

Beyond Scandinavia, the trend appears driven by a confluence of economic and environmental factors. With manicure costs in the UK ranging from £15 to £55, recessionary pressures may be limiting monthly appointments. Concurrently, environmental concerns regarding microplastics and non-biodegradable products are influencing consumer choices. Resin gel and acrylic nails shed microplastics, and nail salons have been identified as having significant indoor air pollution. This has led to a rise in 'medical mani/pedis', which prioritise nail health over aesthetics, addressing worries over UV light exposure and allergic reactions.

Search data corroborates the shift in consumer interest. Google Trends indicates that searches for 'naked nails' have risen by 85% since May, while interest in 'milky nails' has increased by 22%. Beauty expert Annabelle Taurua links this to a broader move towards low-maintenance beauty, such as lash lifts and skin tints, where consumers seek polished, effortless appearances rather than abandoning treatments entirely. Fashion historian Ruby Redstone, who has observed the trend in New York, suggests it also serves a stylistic purpose, allowing neutral nails to complement bold clothing choices.

However, the trend has sparked debate regarding racial erasure. Critics argue that positioning bare nails as the standard for professionalism marginalises expressive styles historically associated with Black and working-class communities. Irene Shelley, editor of Black Beauty and Hair magazine, warns against coding the bare aesthetic as more sophisticated than fuller, expressive styles. Beauty journalist Ateh Jewel draws parallels to historical beauty shifts, noting that beauty trends often reflect power and racial prejudices, and advocates for nails as a form of self-expression without hierarchical judgment.

For those adopting the look, professional advice remains cautious. Goddard clarifies that the belief nails need to 'breathe' is a myth, as they are composed of dead cells. She advises against improper at-home gel removal, which can cause damage, and recommends reputable salons for application and removal. As the industry navigates this shift, the 'naked' manicure stands as a multifaceted symbol of contemporary cultural and commercial forces.