Paul Smith at 80: a fashion life built on curiosity, control and continuity
Ahead of his memoir, the British designer reflects on a global brand, recent losses and a future devoted to young creative talent.
At 80, Paul Smith remains closely connected to the most ordinary part of his business: the shop floor. Speaking to The Guardian Fashion ahead of the publication of Threads: My Life in Style, the British designer said working in his stores and meeting customers remains one of his favourite aspects of the job.
Smith left school at 15 and opened his first shop in Nottingham in 1970, after encouragement from his wife, Pauline, a trained artist and important influence on his creative development. What began as a small menswear shop grew into a company with more than 1,200 employees and about 130 shops worldwide, with particularly strong sales in Japan. Smith has retained control of the business after declining substantial offers to sell.
The company has faced a difficult period. Smith told The Guardian Fashion that Paul Smith lost more than £22 million last year and is expected to lose again this year. He attributed the pressure partly to the pandemic’s effect on workwear, Brexit and the closure of independent boutiques, but said the business was now “on the verge of breaking even”.
His account of the brand’s longevity is less about expansion than adjustment. Smith said the company must continue to reassess its relevance, while preserving a culture that is modest, down to earth and attentive to service. He also expressed concern that younger people face greater pressure to conform in how they dress, and that independent shops are losing ground as costs rise and high streets fade.
Retirement is not part of Smith’s plans. His next focus is the Paul Smith’s Foundation, which aims to support young designers and entrepreneurs with practical knowledge as well as creative guidance. He said he intends to leave literally everything to the foundation, although that transfer has not taken place and its future funding and structure were not specified.
Threads: My Life in Style is due to be published on 10 September. Smith says he wrote it for people in the creative industries, drawing on a career shaped by humour, curiosity, hard work and an ambition that has never depended entirely on growth.
