Mayor of Saint-Ouen escalates standoff with Master Poulet over junk food restrictions
A public dispute between Mayor Karim Bouamrane and the fast-food chain Master Poulet has intensified, with accusations of administrative harassment emerging from rival left-wing factions.
Karim Bouamrane, mayor of the Paris suburb of Saint-Ouen, has maintained a physical blockade at the entrance of a Master Poulet outlet despite a judicial order to remove the barriers. Following a court ruling requiring the removal of concrete blocks placed to prevent the sale of food near his town hall, Bouamrane substituted the obstruction with oversized flowerpots. This tactical shift marks a continuation of a high-profile confrontation regarding the presence of the fast-food chain in the area.
The dispute has transcended local zoning issues to become a significant political feud between Bouamrane and the France Unbowed (LFI) party. LFI lawmaker Éric Coquerel, who heads the finance committee at the French National Assembly, has accused the mayor of administrative harassment and abuse of power. Coquerel has called upon the police prefect to intervene on behalf of the establishment, arguing that the mayor's actions favour shops that are not affordable for everyone.
Master Poulet, which sold 10,000 tonnes of poultry across 50 outlets in 2025, primarily within the Paris region, occupies a strategic location at a busy crossroads. The site is situated near the recently extended Line 14 metro and adjacent to the Bouillon du Coq restaurant opened by chef Thierry Marx. This positioning places the outlet at the heart of a transformation in Saint-Ouen, a working-class suburb known for its flea market and its role as an athletes' village during the 2024 Paris Olympics.
The conflict highlights broader tensions within the French left concerning gentrification and dietary habits. While Bouamrane justifies his actions as a fight against junk food and odours affecting residents, critics on the left accuse him of sponsoring gentrification. The rapid expansion of affordable chicken shops in working-class areas has exposed deep divisions between advocates of quality food and opponents who view such establishments as symbols of urban change.
Nutritionists and the French poultry industry have raised concerns regarding the health impacts of fried chicken and the sourcing of poultry from outside France with fewer sanitary safeguards. Bouamrane has echoed these grievances, noting that the commercial landscape risks becoming a cluster of identical establishments. He emphasised the need to promote quality food from a young age, though the specific legal outcome regarding the flowerpots or potential fines for continued obstruction remains undetermined.
The incident reflects a wider trend of youth-driven chicken shops replacing traditional takeaways in European high streets. With chains like Master Poulet offering inexpensive comfort food, the dispute has drawn comparisons to similar blockades elsewhere, such as the Strait of Hormuz. As the standoff continues, it underscores the difficulty of navigating commercial development and public health concerns in a politically fractured environment.
