Louis Vuitton’s Paris surf show sparks resident protest as Saint Laurent turns heads
Pharrell Williams’s surf-inspired menswear collection unfolded in near 40C heat, while controversy erupted over the use of student accommodation grounds. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent celebrated its slim silhouettes with a performance by Madonna.
Louis Vuitton presented its latest menswear collection in Paris under temperatures nearing 40C, transforming the venue into a high-fashion beachscape complete with sand and a towering artificial wave. Designed by Pharrell Williams, the collection centred on an active lifestyle theme, featuring branded wetsuits, Ugg-style boots, chunky knits, board shorts, and skate-style sneakers. The runway narrative culminated in a model wearing a monogram wetsuit while carrying a bicycle, underscoring the brand’s blend of leisure and luxury.
The choice of venue, however, ignited a debate regarding the commercialisation of public spaces. The show took place in the gardens of university accommodation, a decision that prompted a small protest and a petition signed by 1,300 people. Residents were left unable to access the lawn, a grievance echoed by union representatives in April who complained that external events were repeatedly privatising spaces essential to student life. This follows similar utilisation of the grounds by other luxury houses, including Loewe and Victoria Beckham.
Despite the local friction, the event drew significant celebrity attention and demonstrated the brand’s cultural reach. Missy Elliott, Jeremy Allen White, and Victor Wembanyama occupied front-row seats, while the show featured a live orchestra and choir. Louis Vuitton’s influence was further highlighted by Callum Turner, who wore two Williams-designed suits for his wedding to Dua Lipa in Sicily. The brand’s Instagram post of the couple garnered 14 million likes, serving as a potent example of organic product placement.
These lavish productions coincide with Louis Vuitton’s status as the world’s most valuable fashion brand, valued at $40.7bn in 2025. The Paris show follows a May womenswear presentation at New York’s Frick Museum, for which the brand has agreed to a three-year sponsorship. This move reinforces Louis Vuitton’s strategy of aligning itself with high culture and established artistic heritage.
Earlier in the day, Saint Laurent held its own presentation, continuing the trend of slim silhouettes observed during the Milan menswear schedule. Models wore fitted knits, skinny-fit trousers, and tailored suiting with subtle shoulder pads. The audience included Madonna, Charli xcx, and Connor Storrie, who were photographed smoking before the show began. Madonna later performed for guests at a post-show party, cementing the brand’s reputation for merging fashion with musical spectacle.