Wired tests midsize knives as precise alternatives to standard chef’s blades

A review published by Wired on 7 June 2026 evaluates five- to six-inch midsize kitchen knives, positioning them as versatile alternatives to standard chef’s knives. The article argues these compact tools serve as effective workhorses for users with smaller hands or those preferring precision over size. The review tested models from Messermeister, Zwilling, Wusthöf, and Seisuke (Sakai Takayuki) through tasks including chopping vegetables and carving rotisserie chickens. The Messermeister Kawashima utility knife and Takayuki kiritsuke were highlighted for superior performance, while the Wusthöf 5-inch chef's knife struggled with precision and wedging. Prices ranged from approximately $120 to $220, with the author concluding that midsize knives can effectively bridge the gap between chef's and paring knives.

The evaluation involved testing specific models: the Messermeister Oliva Elite, Messermeister Kawashima utility knife, Zwilling Pro 5.5 Inch Prep Knife, Wusthöf Classic 5-inch chef’s knife, and Seisuke (Sakai Takayuki) 160mm kiritsuke. Testing involved chopping vegetables such as carrots, onions, and collard greens, alongside carving six rotisserie chickens. The Messermeister Kawashima and Takayuki kiritsuke were highlighted as top performers for precision and capability. The Wusthöf 5-inch model struggled with wedging and precision during onion chopping and chicken carving.

The Messermeister Kawashima utility knife outperformed others in mixing precision, comfort, and capability, handling garlic, carrots, potatoes, and chicken quarters effectively. The Takayuki kiritsuke was described as "wicked sharp" and provided excellent rocking and push cutting, though its polished handle was noted as slightly slippery. The Wusthöf 5-inch knife was criticised for wedging rather than slicing through onions and leaving meat on the carcass during chicken carving. The Zwilling Pro 5.5 Inch Prep Knife performed admirably due to its angled bolster and pinch grip comfort.

The Messermeister Oliva Elite was praised for its rocking motion and aesthetics but noted as potentially overpriced at $180 compared to competitors. The author tested knives using recipes from Ron Tsu/Hugh Amano, Tamar Adler, Gus Constantellis, and Ham El-Waylly. The author consulted bladesmith Bob Tate regarding the Wusthöf’s edge, noting Tate is retiring but Seisuke is launching a sharpening service.

Prices ranged from approximately $120 (Zwilling, Wusthöf) to $220 (Takayuki kiritsuke). The review suggests that while cheaper models exist, they may not merit the addition to a collection, positioning the midsize segment as a distinct category requiring careful selection based on individual physiological needs and cutting styles.