Nepal Tourism Department hails record Everest summits amid overcrowding concerns
Kami Rita Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa set new benchmarks, but officials warn that the 492 permits issued this season could strain safety protocols if weather windows close.
Nepal’s Tourism Department has described the recent summits by two Sherpa climbers as a significant milestone in the nation’s mountaineering history, while simultaneously acknowledging the regulatory challenges posed by record-breaking participation on Mount Everest.
Himal Gautam, spokesperson for the department, stated that the achievements by Kami Rita Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa demonstrate how healthy competition can contribute to safer and better-managed climbing operations. Gautam noted that the records set by the climbers add excitement to the sector but emphasised that such competition must be balanced against the need for dignified and secure management of the peak.
Kami Rita Sherpa, 56, known as the “Everest Man,” reached the summit for the 32nd time, surpassing the record he set in the previous year. Having first summited in 1994 while working for a commercial expedition, he has guided clients almost annually since then, sometimes completing two ascents in a single year. Sherpa, who was born in Thame village in the Solukhumbu district—the same hometown as Tenzing Norgay—has previously downplayed his record-breaking status, describing his efforts in 2024 as simply “just working.”
Lhakpa Sherpa, 52, the “Mountain Queen,” also broke her own record with her 11th summit. She made history in 2000 as the first Nepali woman to successfully summit and descend the mountain. Her continued participation underscores the evolving role of women in high-altitude mountaineering within Nepal.
The record summits occurred during the March-May climbing season, during which Nepal issued 492 permits—the highest number in the mountain’s history. This surge in permits has rekindled concerns regarding overcrowding on the peak. Officials and observers note that if adverse weather conditions shorten the viable climbing window, the density of climbers and their Sherpa guides could exacerbate safety risks significantly.
While Sherpa climbers dominate the ascent records, non-Sherpa climbers also hold notable benchmarks. British guide Kenton Cool leads with 19 summits, followed by Americans Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison with 15 each. Cool and Madison are currently on Everest attempting to improve their respective records, adding to the volume of traffic on the mountain.
Since the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary in 1953, more than 8,000 people have climbed the mountain, with many attempting multiple ascents. The commercialisation of mountaineering has turned the industry into a lucrative business, prompting ongoing debates about capacity management and safety governance in the Himalayas.
