From Souvenir Stall to Runway: The I ❤️ New York Shirt’s High-Fashion Rebirth
How Gen Z’s ironic nostalgia and political sentiment have elevated a 1970s tourist logo into a luxury fashion statement.
The iconic ‘I ❤️ New York’ T-shirt has undergone a significant transformation, shifting from a ubiquitous tourist souvenir to a coveted high-fashion item. Originally conceived in 1976 by graphic designer Milton Glaser for the advertising agency Wells Rich Greene, the logo was designed to promote tourism during an economic downturn. Inspired by Robert Indiana’s pop art, the design has since transcended its commercial origins to become a symbol of egalitarian civic pride, driven largely by Gen Z’s embrace of ironic nostalgia.
Luxury houses have played a pivotal role in this resurgence. During New York Fashion Week in September 2024, Ella Emhoff, the stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, wore a Coach interpretation featuring beaded hearts and pen-scribbled text. Earlier that year, in January 2025, Teyana Taylor donned the shirt while hosting Saturday Night Live. Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy further elevated the aesthetic during the brand’s December 2024 Métiers d’Art show in a subway station, styling a sequined version with a matching tweed set.
The trend has permeated celebrity culture and red carpets beyond the runway. In April 2025, model Alex Consani wore the Chanel iteration to an event in Times Square, while Amelia Dimoldenberg paired a faded baby tee version with a gown by Miss Claire Sullivan at The Devil Wears Prada 2 premiere. British singer-songwriter Rose Gray has also incorporated the shirt into her stage wardrobe, often coordinating it with the city of performance to express a blend of tacky nostalgia and affection for her fans.
This revival coincides with notable political shifts in New York, specifically the election of Zohran Mamdani as mayor. The trend is interpreted as a symbol of pride that contrasts with the Trump administration, fostering a sense of opposition to perceived threats from the federal government. Fashion consultant Miranda Shanahan suggests the cycle aligns with Laver’s Law, where trends become desirable after a 20-year emotional cycle, allowing the shirt to be remixed like a meme template.
The ‘I ❤️ New York’ logo remains a potent example of city branding, with experts noting that fashion narrates a city’s aspirational value to a global audience. What began as a marketing ploy in the 1970s became a pop culture staple in the 1990s and 2000s. Today, it serves as a versatile cultural artifact, crossing boundaries between low culture and high fashion, and signalling a humblebrag of worldliness to those who wear it.