Alexander McQueen Brings Its Dark British Spirit Back to London
Seán McGirr’s theatrical collection marked the brand’s return from the Paris schedule as Alexander McQueen undergoes reported store closures and job losses.
Alexander McQueen has returned to London Fashion Week with a dark, British-inspired collection by creative director Seán McGirr, bringing the label back to the city associated with its most unconventional shows.
Held in a subterranean 17th-century chapel, the presentation featured steel harnesses, bulky ankle-strapped heels and a chain-mail dress scattered with silver skulls. British tailoring references met influences from rave culture, recalling the physical intensity of the house’s earlier London productions, including “Dante” and “Voss”.
The return was the first major decision made by new chief executive Gianfranco d’Attis since he took the role in June. It comes as the brand undergoes a reported restructuring involving store closures and job losses, with no figures or timetable provided.
The reported strategy is to reduce the emphasis on trainers and sweatshirts while concentrating more heavily on evening gowns and British tailoring. McQueen’s red-carpet dressing remains a stated strength of the business.
McGirr, now in his third year as creative director, said the collection drew on London street style and its resistance to convention. He described the city as a constant source of stimulation and said he wanted the house’s exaggerated shoulders to feel “like angel wings”, giving the collection an ethereal quality alongside its harder elements.
The Guardian Fashion report places the homecoming within the longer history of a label shaped by Lee McQueen, who died in 2010, and Sarah Burton, who later designed Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. In London, the brand’s legacy is being revisited as both a cultural asset and a commercial proposition.
