Schiaparelli finds a lighter stride in Paris
Daniel Roseberry opened his latest show with sporty stretch dresses, then returned to the house’s signature surrealist details.
At Schiaparelli’s Paris show, Daniel Roseberry gave the house’s surrealist glamour a more streamlined silhouette. Stretch cocktail dresses opened the collection, bringing a sporty simplicity to a label known for turning anatomical motifs into couture spectacle.
Roseberry called it his “aerodynamic era”, a phrase that takes on a literal edge as he trains for the New York City Marathon. The ease of the opening looks sat alongside gold-foiled nipple details and peekaboo fabrics, keeping the show’s sensuality firmly in Schiaparelli territory.
The finale shifted to snug dinner jackets embroidered with designs from the house archives. Across the collection, simplicity served as a change of pace, while the archive and body-conscious embellishment kept its visual language in view.
The Guardian reports that Schiaparelli has 10 points of sale worldwide and that its business has grown from $6 million in 2020 to around $100 million today. Roseberry told the publication that the runway reflects what the house sells, describing its voice as large despite its relatively small scale.
