Fashion’s characterful hats move from runway to retail
Pillboxes, boaters and bicornes are appearing in designer collections and high-street shops, adding a more expressive note to dressing.

A hat can turn an outfit into a statement. A Guardian fashion report traces the renewed visibility of distinctive styles, from pillboxes and boaters to bicornes and buckets, across designer collections and high-street retail.
The runway examples are varied: Thom Browne showed straw boaters under colourful mesh, Chloé paired sheer hats with sheer trenchcoats, while Burberry presented oversized bucket styles. Loro Piana, Courrèges and Bottega Veneta also featured hats in their collections.
The report describes these designs as accents chosen for character as much as function. Hat historian David Long says headwear offers a rare opportunity for display, while milliner Noel Stewart says hats can signal personality and intent.
That visual language has reached shops including Asos and H&M, and John Galliano’s Zara collaboration includes Napoleonic-style bicornes. At Copenhagen fashion week, pillbox hats were also a common sight on the streets, according to the report.
The examples suggest hats are finding new visibility across fashion, but the report gives no sales figures to establish how widespread or lasting the interest may be. For some wearers, a more distinctive shape may still feel like a bold choice for an ordinary day.


